Mustang Social Forums

The 4.6, with it's coil on plugs, and alum heads, Isn't like it's older brothers. When changing plugs. More expensive, isn't better. Use anti seaze on plug threads, and dielectric grease at contact of plug to coil. Do use a wire gap gauge, .54 thousands, rather large. This is something that is critical, best not to guess. There are Gauges made specially for our engines.they are cheap to buy, besides, wouln't want to be spanked by an import just cause I cheaped out, and fucked my performance up.

I don't even want to *think* about spark plugs. I have three news ones in, but do you think I can get the fourth out? I'd just about managed to forget about it, but now you've reminded me that it's gotta be sorted. And it's raining

I am refering to the 4.6 V-8 modular engine. 8 spark plugs, not 4. Sound to me like you are having problem removing rear most plug, on an in line 4. I am assuming you can't get at plug due to master cyl. in way. You need to use a wobble ext. Something about the 4.6 I should have mentioned.Let the engine cool. Clean out holes with air, before removing plugs. Don't want any shiat in the engine. Also, torque the plugs to spec. They do not use crush washers.

Those plugs are hard to remove so it would be better for me if I will just hire somebody else to do them for me. I’m not that technical.

On the 4.6 , it's easy. Matco has special plug sockets for modular engines. Basicly they are plug sockets with an 4 inch extension(integral). Spark plugs are on top, faceing straight up, next to injectors. They are down in the hole. Before removing plug, blow out debris with air. when installing new plug, use a length of fuel hose to start plug, and remove the rubber boot in the socket, or you will have a biatch of a time getting the socket off of the plug. Allways use antisieze on plug threads. Never over torque plugs, 7 to 14 foot pounds of torque, 14 lbs, max. It may look like the fuel rails are in the way, but they arn't.

Thanks deth, you sound like you know alot about what you're tlaking baout! this'll be a good thread when I finally get some new sparkers!

When i changed out my plugs about 2 months ago, it was a breeze... it took maybe an hr tops.

Before removing plug, blow out debris with air

The best piece of advice ever right there. Remember, just a few pieces of debris will cause pinging.... or much worse. Well worth the 3.99 spray can from fry's (or an air hose) to blow them out beforehand.

And be careful of the o-rings...they break

I started this thread, because I have helped many people to replace plugs, that were over torqued, and practicly welded into the heads. Many people will run plugs untill the gap is eroded almost a third larger than spec. Then install into the head, while hot(or warm), without never sieze, or torque wrench. Without thinking about expansion/contraction, or over torque. Getting those plugs out can be tedious, Heads cost to much, and are a lot of work, to replace.